Byline: WILLIAM M. DOWD Associate editor -
LENOX, Mass. -- Comedian Billy Crystal's narcissistic character Fernando used to say it doesn't matter how you feel as long as you look marvelous.
Bistro Zinc looks marvelous, but you also feel good being there because the food is so, well, marvelous.
The talents of chef Sean Boyle and architect Frank Macioge have made the 3-year-old restaurant a success for co-owners Charles Schultz and Jason Macioge, Frank's son.
The bistro is located on a commercial side street discreetly hidden from Historic 7A behind a gas station, but there is nothing reluctant about it once inside.
A bold use of metals and woods creates instant character. A slightly curved bar with a polished zinc top dominates the cocktail lounge, which has a nice array of single barrel bourbons and single malt scotches, in the rear of the building. The restroom doors are covered in pieces of lettered wood wine crates. Fresh flowers in glass holders are perched on a table in the reception area.
The mirrored front dining room avoids being claustrophobic despite the crush of tables because the eye can go to so many places. Metal-plated shelves at the tops of walls on which wine bottles are displayed segue into a tin ceiling effect. Warm swaths of polished wood create a great contrast to the metal, and the Mylar-like window sills are a perfect bridge of a hard-look, soft-feel texture.
Our party of four arrived on a recent Sunday evening, eager to try the French menu and the Wine Spectator -honored wine list. Despite a 6 p.m. seating, the place already was jammed with a casually dressed but stylish crowd. It still was that way when we left more than two hours later.
Over rather small $5.75 Manhattans -- ``I didn't realize they had a children's menu for drinks,'' commented one guest -- we debated the merits of the wine list (all French labels, fairly priced). I deferred to Mr. Toque to make the selection for all of us, since food and wine are his everyday business.
He selected a 1995 red Rhone, Les Nobles Rivers Hermitage ($60). The syrah wine is full of spice and pepper qualities, a good choice to accompany our particular meals despite its age putting it on the edge.
Boyle's intelligently composed menu uses simple, fresh products in good combinations as a true bistro should. The openers showed that right off the bat.
Perhaps the star dish was a cloud-light carpaccio cut from prime filet mignon and served with mache, that old-fashioned green with a mild taste and soft texture that pairs wonderfully with raw beef, and a gentle truffle vinaigrette. Points also must go to the shrimp rolls with a sake dipping sauce, as well to as the tender scallop salad and a plate of mixed greens with crisp-browned goat cheese.
The entrees also pleased, from the wonderful Southeast Asian simplicity of the seared tuna dish (with a vegetarian dumpling, braised baby bok choi and a Vietnamese-style vinaigrette) to the French-cut pork chop, pounded flat, coated and sauteed, then served with a potato pancake all drizzled with a balsamic glaze.
In between those dishes were a chicken breast, pan roasted and served with a vegetable fricasse and roasted garlic potatoes, plus a duck dish using a leg confit and grilled breast, pairing them with mushroom cannelloni and a cider reduction sauce. A side of turnip mashed potatoes was, regrettably, nothing special.
Our desserts completed the feast, appealing to both eye and palate as did their predecessor dishes. In particular, the fresh profiteroles -- cream-puff pastry, sliced and filled with homemade vanilla-flecked ice cream then draped in a rich chocolate sauce -- were the star. But, it would be difficult to ignore the huge slice of rich ice cream cake, a nice tarte tatin -- the classic French country apple tart, and a Godiva chocolate confection also enjoyed at the table.
Our bill for four people, before tax and tip, was $244.50. Without drinks and wine, it quickly dropped to $184.50, or $46 each. Not unusual, considering upscale Berkshires restaurants tend toward New York and Boston prices since much of their clientele journeys from there for local weekend stays.
Dowd's recent restaurant reviews are available online at http://timesunion.com/ entertainment/restaurants. His own travel and food site is http://TasteForTravel .com.FACTS:RESTAURANT REVIEW BISTRO ZINC 56 Church St. Lenox, MA 01240 Telephone: (413) 637-8800. Reservations requested.Hours: Lunch and dinner (from 5:30 p.m.) daily.Credit Cards: All major plastic.Parking/Access: Private lot behind building. Separate door for handicap access. Food/Beverage (*** ): French-styled bistro menu. All-French wine list, nicely balanced and fairly priced.Service (*** ): Professional, attentive.Atmosphere ( *** ): Clever use of metal ceiling and trim, wood panels, interior glass. Zinc-clad bar.Dinner Prices: $ $ $ Rating Key: 1 to 4 stars, with 2 stars an average score. Price rating based on rough average of entree costs: $ for $9.95 and under; $ $ for $10.95-$15.95; $ $ $ for $15.95 and up. ***
CAPTION(S):
APRIL L. DOWD/SPECIAL TO THE TIMES UNION THE CEILING and wall surfaces of metal and mirrored glass contrast with rich wood panels at the Bistro Zinc.
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